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Are Sualkuchi's Traditional Weavers Losing Ground?

30 May,2022 04:59 PM, by: Monalisa Gogoi
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Sualkuchi situated on the northern banks of the Brahmaputra is considered one of the world's biggest weaving hamlets. Often referred to as the Manchester of the East, almost the whole population is engaged in the production of magnificent silk fabrics. With the passage of time, it has become a well-known silk industry center, especially for the 'Muga' silk, the golden thread of Assam that is produced nowhere else in the world.

Almost every household here has its own looms here. Mekhela chadors, saris, and Gamusas are all made on the village's handlooms here, which still use cardboard cards pierced with elaborate motifs which resemble Braille. Assam has numerous silk weaving regions; however, the reputation of Sualkuchi has grown over the years for its quality, design, and technique.

However, Sualkuchi, like other artisan regions in the country, has also not been able to ignore the powerful impact of the free-market economy. Consumers who appreciate authenticity and legacy still exist, but inexpensive replacements have unavoidably impacted overall sales. This growing trend has had an impact on wages, as the cost of the raw material, woven silk, etc. has increased due to lack of demand. Weavers stated that as the price of thread rose, they were forced to take their looms and enter the factory. Workers now work for entrepreneurs who have their own looms and the entrepreneurs employ as many weavers as they can on a daily basis.  The silk weaving market, like most other traditional industries in India, is becoming commercialized and is being taken over by entrepreneurs, many of whom are locals, and traditional weavers are succumbing to the demand and joining the new trend.

The unavailability of a marketing structure to assist local artisan weavers is preventing them from continuing their traditional style of work. When dignitaries visit the village, the artisans have raised their concern about outsiders entering their customary domain and bringing cheap thread with them, hurting their traditional livelihood.

However, everything is not so disconsolate. The Muga thread, famed for its endurance when made into fabric, is exclusively found here, although other cheaper threads, such as Pat and Eri – regarded as poor man's silk historically employed in the home spinning business – are now extensively utilized in the local weaving industry, often blended with the Muga – a rich tradition preserved to this day. With a rising yearning to return to its roots, Assamese and other Indians across the broad subcontinent are clamoring for Assam silk turned into contemporary clothes, including classic Indian subcontinent outfits such as 'shalwar kameez, "sarees,' and 'shawls.' It is heartening to see tourists from all over the world admiring our rich traditional craft with ever-growing interest from overseas purchasers.

To meet the swelling desire for Assamese silks, the Sualkuchi village has been dedicated to the Institute of Fashion Technology, which is financed by the Assam govt. that trains young people from all over India in design technology, fashion design, and fabric manufacture. Most of the graduates from the institute here are hired as designers or master trainers and are able to demonstrate stylish garments based on traditional motifs such as the migrating stork that visits the neighborhood. This has largely enabled the traditional artistry to reach global fame and recognition.

All said, there is a balance that needs to be maintained. We need our traditional artisans and looms as well as the promoters and modern textile machinery to meet the growing demand. Our govt. needs to support the traditional art form by creating state-run schemes that will enable them to keep the art form alive. We also need to create forums as well as organize events on a regular basis where their work is showcased to the world. Meanwhile, we also need to support mass production and meet the growing demand, which in return will help us generate local jobs, and grow our local economy.


Disclaimer: The opinions expressed in this article are those of the author's. They do not purport to reflect the opinions or views of The Critical Script or its editor.

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