The Barak River, a lifeline flowing through the southern reaches of Assam, holds a hidden gem of immense spiritual and historical value: an island shrine known as "Narando Baba" to the locals and formally as Khwairakpa Erel Umang Lai Nongpok Ningthou Khuvam to the Manipuri people. Situated in the Lakhipur region of the Cachar district, this secluded sanctuary stands as a testament to the enduring faith and cultural heritage of the Meitei community, thousands of whom journey here annually to pay their respects.

The deity and the Umang Lai tradition

The island shrine is dedicated to the Meitei sylvan deity, Nongpok Ningthou, also known as Khwairakpa. In the Meitei religion, Nongpok Ningthou is the guardian deity of the eastern direction and is considered one of the principal Umang Lais (forest deities). The shrine on the Barak River is the most famous site dedicated to this deity in Assam, attracting devotees not just from the surrounding regions but also from Manipur and Tripura.

The reverence for Nongpok Ningthou is intertwined with the Meitei concept of Umang Lai, or "forest gods," who are believed to be the ancient gods of a community or clan. The pilgrimage to Khwairakpa Erel is a sacred act that connects devotees to their ancient religious roots, reinforcing a sense of community and shared identity.

A legacy of displacement and resilience

The shrine's significance is closely tied to a dark period in Manipuri history known as the "Seven Years Devastation" or Chahi Taret Khuntakpa (1819–1826). During this time, the Burmese invaded Manipur, forcing the Manipuri kings and a large number of their subjects to flee and seek refuge in the Barak Valley and other parts of Northeast India.

Khwairakpa Erel became a symbol of this refuge and the resilience of the Manipuri people. For the scattered Meitei brethren who settled in different parts of Assam and Tripura, the annual pilgrimage to the island shrine serves as a powerful message of reunion and cultural preservation. The pilgrimage is not just a religious ritual but a historical remembrance of their ancestors' struggle and survival.

The annual pilgrimage: A journey by river

The island's isolated location ensures that the pilgrimage itself is a profound journey. Every year, thousands of worshippers travel to the island by boat, a voyage that can take several hours depending on the speed of the vessel.

The annual festival takes place on the second Sunday of the Manipuri month of Wakching, which typically falls in January. During this time, the quiet waterways of the Barak River are filled with boats carrying devotees, creating a vibrant scene of religious and cultural congregation. The journey by water is an integral part of the spiritual experience, allowing pilgrims to connect with nature and reflect on their faith.

Cultural importance and community preservation

Beyond its religious aspects, the annual festival plays a crucial role in preserving and promoting Manipuri culture. Organizations like the Khwairakpa Erel and Leima Erel Semgat Sagat Lup (KELESSL) have worked to maintain the site and facilitate the pilgrimage for devotees. These efforts ensure that the traditions and customs associated with the shrine are passed down through generations.

In an increasingly globalized world, the annual pilgrimage to Khwairakpa Erel reinforces the cultural ties that bind the Manipuri diaspora, providing a link to their homeland and a sense of belonging. The shrine on the Barak River remains a sacred anchor, representing not just a deity, but the soul of a community's history.